Timepieces of 2017: blue is the new green
In 1957, Piaget made history when it launched its first Altiplano equipped with an ultrathin hand-wound calibre 9P that measured only 2mm thick. To celebrate the 60th anniversary of the Altiplano, the maison unveiled a limited edition collection:
the one that stole the show was the Altiplano Tourbillon High Jewellery watch, which has a rich blue-grey dial with beautiful guilloche detail. For the first time for the Altiplano line, a tourbillon is featured between 2 and 3 o’clock.
Happy Diamonds grace the dials of the women’s Happy Sport collection at
Chopard. Free-moving diamonds whirl past the dial whenever the wearer
moves or shakes her hand. The new Happy Ocean is a diver’s watch, and
features a unidirectional rotating bezel with either a turquoise or raspberry accent reminiscent of brightly coloured corals. There are two versions: polished, which is waterresistant to 300 metres; and gem-set, which is water-resistant to 100 metres.
This year is the 40th anniversary of the Royal Oak yellow gold timepiece, and AP is marking the occasion with the introduction of the Royal Oak Extra-Thin “Jumbo” line. The line comes with two dial options: blue and Champagne – but the blue
version proves to be the crowd’s favourite. The blue dial contrasts beautifully with the sheen of the gold case and bracelets. A Petite Tapisserie pattern decorates the dial, while a date window is at 3 o’clock.
The Marine Equation Marchante 5887 ticks all the right boxes. The muted blue dial with waves of the ocean engraved in the centre is a nod to the maison’s history with the French Navy. Another highlight is the true equation of time complication, overlaid on a tourbillon, at five o’clock. The feature depicts a representation of the difference between mean solar time – or “civil time” – and
true solar time – the path the sun takes in the sky, as seen from the earth – which can range from minus 16 to plus 14 minutes.
Created from a single block of blue ceramic, the Seamaster Planet Ocean “Big Blue” is a sight to see. True to its name, this timepiece, unveiled at Baselworld, is big – the case is 45.5mm – and with a rich blue evident on the case, dial and rubber straps. Also featured are bright orange accents, like the numerals and the GMT track, which helps bring out the blueness – a natural effect since orange is blue’s direct complementary colour on the colour wheel.
Introduced in 1945, the Datejust is one of the most iconic watch models and has long been a favourite among horlogerie fans. At Baselworld this year, Rolex released a 41mm model with a blue dial – the Reference 126334. The dial is paired with a white Rolesor case – a steel and white gold alloy – white gold fluted bezel and steel bracelets. The effect is a casual yet gentlemanly watch that can be worn as an everyday piece.
Ladies were in for a treat this year when Roger Dubuis debuted its sleek Excalibur Essential 36 automatic at SIHH. The timepiece is blue in every way, from the PVD-coated blue dial to the blue sapphire-studded bezel, and the blue alligator straps. Complementing the black 36mm DLC-treated titanium case are the white elongated numerals and a small seconds counter and date window at 6 o’clock.